Zhongguo Shier (China 12)

The first week back from our trip we were overwhelmed by queries from students and teachers about our adventures. We got our pictures developed and shared them, along with our stories with everyone. On our first Friday back (November 19), Mrs. Guo had invited us to a barbecue that her class was having. It was to be an all-night campout. That also happened to be Pamela's birthday. Rita was having a party for Pamala, and so most of the ARCC students were going to go to the barbecue later; however, Mrs. Guo's students pleaded with me to come at the beginning. So, I did, and what an experience.

Mrs. Guo had arranged for the school bus to take her class from school to the Youth Hostel at Seven Star Crag Park. Mrs. Guo had purchased all of the food and charcoal for the party (she has 42 students), and the students cheerfully lugged all of the food from Mrs. Guo's apartment out to the front gate where the bus was waiting. We loaded the bus, and off we went. We got to the park where there were several other groups already barbecuing. We had to lug all of our supplies to the far end of the barbecue area. In a flash the students had everything set up and running.

Barbecuing in China is slightly different than in the US. A Chinese grill is a raised stone pit. You start a fire with twigs and leaves and then put the charcoal on top. There is no grate, so one needs to hold food over the fire using a long two-pronged fork. At the Youth Hostel they provided us with plastic stools about a foot high (very uncomfortable) so that we could sit around the various pits (we had about six or seven). Normally, when I barbecue chicken, I put the pieces on the grate, turn them after twenty minutes, and eat after another twenty. But, here one needs to hold the chicken the entire time. They had a honey glaze to brush on the chicken, and the students were applying it liberally. I waited. I glazed my chicken in the last five minutes of cooking, and the students marveled at how golden and shiny it turned out. I shared my secret, and soon it was the craze. There was so much food. I had four pieces of chicken, four Chinese hot dogs (I hope there is not a literal meaning there), four pears, four oranges, four pieces of fish, four of something else, and two yams. When some of the students found out how many fours I had eaten, they insisted that I eat one more. Four is a bad number in China. I objected to their insistence -- "Tai baole!" (Too full!), but it was no use. I had to eat some more.

I marveled at watching the Chinese students and their group dynamics. There are times when the Chinese students seem so naïve and immature for their age (especially when one compares them to Americans of the same age). But, there are other times when they appear so much more mature. This experience contained both. It was fascinating watching the students both work and play. The simple joy they got from swinging at the playground (some had never been on a swing before). They would patiently wait their turn, and laugh and holler as they swung higher and higher. One student brought a notebook filled with songs. A group formed around him, and they all tried to read the words in the dim light. I had brought a flashlight and shined it on the book for a while, but it didn't seem to matter. Most couldn't get close enough to read the words, and I was just in the way. But, they sang anyway! Decks of cards were broken out, and two groups formed to play card games. There was a concrete roller skating area where others went out to work on some line dancing. They had no music, but no matter. They counted out the beat, and just worked on learning the steps. And, of course, everyone did their share of work for the barbecue. Some went around adding charcoal to the pits as needed, others washed pears, and still others made sure there was enough of everything at each pit. I thought how refreshing it was that these students could have so much fun with such simple activities -- like children. American students are much too sophisticated for this. I then I started imagining a barbecue like this in America. What would it take to get a class of college students to a barbecue in which they would have to do all the work and the activities were a playground, dancing with no music, and singing? I thought, the only way to get American students to a party like this would be to serve alcohol, drugs, sex, or some combination of the three.  The Chinese students were not enjoying "simple fun"; they were being responsible for making their fun with the materials at hand! No time to be bored! No need for things like TV's, video games, drugs, or other forms of stimuli; these people know how to find the joy within! And they call us a developed country. I love China!

I should also note that Mrs. Krim and Matthew came along at the beginning and that some of the other ARCC students did come after the birthday party at about 9:30 (including the birthday girl, Pamala). It had been cooler all week than it has been, and when I discovered that there were only three tents (there were suppose to be about twenty), I decided not to stay all night, but to go back with Mrs. Guo and Mrs. Krim. We left at about 11:30 along with Pamala, Jen, and four of Mrs. Guo's students. The buses don't run that late, and we also discovered that neither do the taxis! So, we had a nice stroll back to the school (about 3 miles). We got back at about 12:45 AM (the latest I've been up), and I was asleep before my head hit the pillow.

Sunday evening (November 21) -- the English Department had a birthday party for Mrs. Krim. Her birthday was actually on Tuesday the 16th, but this was the most convenient time to have the party. Each class had at least one performance, and the ARCC students performed right along with them. Mr. Wei (the school's vice-president) and I performed a duet. He sang Happy Birthday, and I accompanied him on my kazoo. The Chinese have not seen a kazoo here, and they assume it is a very difficult instrument to play -- please nobody tell them differently! We also organized a game of musical chairs, and Simon Says, which were taken very seriously. But, the biggest hit of the party was the balloon animals. The students had seen balloon animals before, but they had never seen how they were made. Rachel had brought along a kit, along with a pump, and I brought two gross of balloons from home. Rachel, Jen, Pam, and Robert pre-made some balloons before the party, and then gave a demonstration of how to make them. The kids went wild! I have never seen the Chinese so unruly -- each of them clamoring for a balloon, and someone to show them how to make it into an animal. We tried to restore order, but even the commands of Mr. Wei went unheeded! Order was finally restored through the help of the ARCC students who quit passing out balloons! So simple! We needed to cut the cake, which was our job.

I had the knife and was trying to figure out how to cut one sheet cake into 160 pieces, when mayhem broke out again. I had just finished cutting the first row when, out of nowhere, three more knives appeared. The students were hacking away at the cake! I thought, "My God, we'll never have enough now!" But, I know better than to try to stop a woman (I won't mention names) after cake -- especially ones armed with knives! Amazingly, as chaotic as it all was, they were all cutting a fair share, and everyone got a piece of cake. Another example of the Chinese sociology at work even amid disorder!

Monday afternoon (November 22) -- Mrs. Krim had made arrangements for us to tour the local Pabst Blue Ribbon Brewery. The Brewmaster there is from Connecticut, and while he was out of town for the week of Thanksgiving, he had arranged for his secretary, Miss Tanghe, to give us a tour. The brewery was from Indiana. It was purchased in 1986, dismantled, and reassembled here in Zhaoqing in 1989. It has since expanded, and employs over 800 people. Pabst has been my friend here in Zhaoqing, and while they make the beer from a rice base, it still tastes good after the long hot days we have experienced here. So, it was fun to get the tour and see all the facets of the operation. And, of course, everywhere we went, the workers would stop in their tracks and stare, wondering where these Americans came from. After the tour we were treated to some samples. To think I had to come all the way to China to get a brewery tour. I like China!

On Wednesday and Thursday (November 24 and 25), all classes were canceled for the annual School Sports Meet. They had an extravagant opening ceremony out on the track. They had the officials table set up on one side of the track, and there was a procession which began with students marching in with numerous colored flags followed by the Chinese flag carried by four students, one on each corner. Next came the procession of each class's participants led by a female student carrying a sign indicating what department and class they were. As they went around the track, they formed up on the soccer field facing the officials' table. All while a traditional Chinese march blared over the sound system. We were invited to participate, of course, and the ARCC students marched in with Mrs. Guo and the Japanese students (I, of course, was seated at the officials' table). After everyone was formed up, there were speeches and performances, and then the games began!

There were many games. There was bowling in which water bottles were used as pins, and irregular shaped balls were used as bowling balls. The balls never rolled straight, so scores were low. You bowled as a team, with each person getting to balls. Our team did not do well, but we avoided a skunk (some teams did not). Rita, Rachel, Jen, Robert, Scott and Jackie (a Japanese student) were in the ball relay in which you had to grab three balls (volleyball size) from a basket, carry them to another basket, and then return. Again, we did not win. There were six legged races in which six people raced only using six legs (we did not even enter), ping pong ball relays using chopsticks, basketball, free throw shooting, shot put, 100 meter, 400 meter, 800 meter, and 1500 meter races and relays, and finally boat races. I had signed up for the shot put, but they would not let me compete because that was a student only event. However, Matthew signed up. In spite of my "excellent" coaching (I threw the shot put in 7th and 8th grade), Matthew kept trying to throw it like a baseball. Alas, he did not win!

On Thursday I was entered in the free throw shooting contest with the rest of the English Department faculty (me, who shoots baskets maybe once a year). There were five to a team, and each member got three shots (a total of 15 per team). Our team consisted of Mrs. Guo, Mrs. Hou, Jonathan, Ernest Hemingway, and myself. We faced off against the Physics Department. We shot first. We made three. Total. I made two of those (go figure), so I was the hero. Physics had us beat before their second shooter was done.

The big event on Thursday afternoon was the boat races. There is a rectangular lake in the middle of the campus, and the school borrowed four boats from the neighboring park. The boats could seat four, two in the front, and two in the back. The bow had a dragonhead, and the stern had the dragon's tail. Students had been practicing all week, and there were about 38 entries (four raced per heat). Matthew, Robert, Scott and I raced in the 9th heat. Our big concern was staying afloat. We managed to paddle straight, but not very fast. We finished third in our heat (yes, there was a fourth boat), but we had fun, and many of the English Department students were rooting us on.

After the race there were two reporters and Mr. Wei waiting for us. They were not there to cover the Sport Meet, but rather wanted to talk to Rachel and Scott about their leadership project. I think I have mentioned this before, but, as part of the Leadership class that I am teaching the ARCC students, that have to undertake a leadership project. Scott and Rachel decided to do an environmental project and involve the students here in cleaning up the area outside the gate. There is litter everywhere. When they first approached the school officials about it, their reaction was just to have the workers clean it up. But, they explained to them all the issues of environmental awareness, volunteerism, ownership of work, etc etc. They have had over 200 students involved in an ongoing project that has been big news. It has received TV coverage, and this was the second time I believe that the newspaper has been here. I tip my hat to them for their efforts, and the impact they have made, not only at the school, but also in the city.

Friday evening (November 26) -- I had an engagement with another group of Chinese students from my class for dinner. They were Lyn (Wu Rui Lian), Aileen (Yao Yin Lian), Joan (Wu Wei Qiong), and Kay (Zheng Hai Zhu). They took me to a restaurant downtown right on the lake. This was a very typical Chinese restaurant. There was lots of noise (the Chinese have fun while they eat), and we almost had to shout across the table to hear each other. Restaurant tables are round with a "lazy susan" on the top. The food is brought out on platters and placed on the lazy susan. Everyone gets a small bowl, another bowl of rice, and a teacup. All share from the food on the platters, using their small bowl to eat from. If you want some more of a particular dish, no need to ask, "Please pass the . . . ", you just give the lazy susan a spin, and it's right there in front of you (don't spin it while someone else is dishing up though).  Best of all, we had wonderful conversation. I learned that both Joan and Kay come from peasant families. Their families are not farmers, but peasants. Peasants live in apartment complexes and work the land. They do have private ownership, and they can sell part of their crops for personal profit (that is how they finance their children's education), but they also work communal farms. We talked about how hard their parents work. I shared with them some of my childhood stories of working on a farm. We compared, contrasted, and returned to the school with a deeper understanding, and more respect for each other and our cultures.

Saturday morning (November 27) -- we began another excellent adventure. We left at 7 AM by public bus to go to Guangzhou which is about a two-hour bus ride from Zhaoqing. It is the largest city in Guangdong Province with a population from 7-10 million. While it is so close, we have not had time to visit it (we had only been to the airport and train station for other excellent adventures). Mrs. Krim had made arrangements for some students from Southeast China University to meet us at the hotel, so that we could all have tour guides to show us what we wanted to see.  When we got to the hotel, the students were there waiting for us. We checked in, everyone paired up with some of the students, and we all headed our separate ways. Robert and Rachel decided to stick with me, and two students named Vivian and Phillip guided us. I wanted to go to Yuexiu Park. It is the largest park in Guangzhou and the home of some famous monuments and museums. Unfortunately, we did not have adequate time to see them all properly, but I would like to describe some of the highlights.

Our first stop was the Guangzhou museum of history. It is housed in Zhenhai Tower, a five-story pagoda. Each floor contains artifacts from different time periods beginning on the first floor with the Han Dynasty (206 BC -- 220 AD), and moving up to the fifth floor which covers 1840 (when the British seized Hong Kong) to the present. On the fifth floor one can step out onto a balcony where one can take in a nice view of the Guangzhou skyline. Unfortunately, it was a gray overcast day, so we didn't get as nice of a view as we could have.

Our next stop was the Sun Yatsen Monument, an obelisk. The monument is made of marble and granite and stands 46 meters (151 feet) high sitting upon the second tallest mountain (really a hill) in Guangzhou. From the top there are four small windows from which one can peer out and look over the city. Sun Yatsen was the leader of the Republican revolution that brought down the Qing Dynasty in 1911. He served as the first president of the Republic of China, and is revered by both Nationalists and Communists alike. There is also a Sun Yatsen Memorial Hall in Guangzhou, but alas, our time did not permit us to take it in.

Our next visit was to see the Sculpture of the Five Rams. According to Legend, in ancient times there were five celestial beings who rode into Guangzhou on rams. Each of them carried a stalk of rice, and they proclaimed to the people living in the area that this place would never suffer from famine. Hence, the city of Guangzhou became a Mecca for people. We ate lunch and then hopped on a bus to head to Shamian Island. Shamian Island is where the Chinese allowed Europeans in the 18th Century to set up shop and build their factories. The Island is peppered with European style buildings. There are a few souvenir shops, which we visited, and we also got to walk by the US Consulate there.

From the Island we headed north to walk through the markets and then Vivian and Phillip had to return to their school. Robert and Rachel wanted to go back to the shops on the island, so I hopped on a bus to return across town to the hotel. I decided to get off the bus halfway home, and do some walking. The city is filled with people! Beijing may have a larger population, but Guangzhou is denser. I followed my instincts and the map in my guidebook (not a very good map), and headed in the direction of the hotel. I stopped at a noodle shop for dinner where I made many new friends. No one spoke English except three boys around the age of 15 or 16. But, with their help, and the help of my phrasebook I was able to share with all where I was from and what I was doing in the middle of Guangzhou. Everyone was concerned about my finding my way back to the hotel, but I assured them, "Meiwanti" (no problem). I'll just walk until I get tired, and then hop in a taxi (I had a hotel card with its address on it). So, I bid farewell, and set off escorted by the three boys. They walked me to a street that had been blocked off for a party that night sponsored by Pepsi. We walked through the street with them pointing out all the significant points of interest. At the end of the block I encouraged them to return home, as their parents must be wondering about them. I assured them I would be all right, but they were uncomfortable leaving me. I finally convinced them, and we parted ways. Within about two miles I stumbled upon our hotel, and settled in for some good reading (The Travels of Marco Polo).

The next morning Mrs. Krim had made arrangements for us to meet with Pasteur Lamb who runs a church in Guangzhou that keeps growing and growing. It has not been easy for him. From 1958-1978 he spent in prison. The last fifteen years in prison he worked in a coal mine up north. It was interesting hearing his story. He is now 75 years old, but you can still see the fire in his eyes! He lives to preach. We spent about an hour listening, and asking questions and then we had to say good-bye. We spent the last two hours in the nearby shopping district (the same street where the Pepsi party was the night before), and then we headed back to the bus station to return to Zhaoqing.

We got back to the school at around 6:15 -- just in time to make it to English Corner at 7! The students here were, again, anxious to hear our stories of our adventures. Only this time we had visited a place that most of them were familiar with, and so it was a case of having to explain why we didn't visit one of their favorite places. The weather was turning colder and the wind was blowing, so everyone huddled. While everyone was happy to see each other again, all were happy when 8 o' clock came, so that we could return to the comfort of our apartments or dorms.

I will end China 12 here, as I feel fairly caught up, and will begin the tale of our latest adventures with China 13.

Zaijian,
Gordy